Put the pancetta into a cold pan, then bring it up to medium heat. Let the fat slowly render until the pancetta is browned and beginning to crisp.

Remove some pancetta and reserve for the top if you want some crispy pieces at the end.

If using onion, cook it gently in the rendered pancetta fat for 2–3 minutes. Add garlic for only the final 30 seconds.

Add the tomatoes. Break them up if whole and simmer for 10–15 minutes until slightly reduced.

Meanwhile, cook the high-protein penne until just under al dente. Reserve at least 1 cup pasta water.

Transfer the pasta into the tomato sauce with about 100 ml pasta water.

Toss over medium heat for another 1–2 minutes. The starch from the pasta and pasta water should emulsify with the rendered pancetta fat and tomato rather than leaving you with a watery tomato sauce.

Turn the heat off and mix through most of the cheese. Add more pasta water if it becomes too tight.

Taste before adding salt. Pancetta and Pecorino can already make this quite salty.

Finish with black pepper, remaining cheese and the reserved crispy pancetta.